Lundi, Lundi. (Monday, Monday)

We started out the morning at the Place de la Concorde, an impossibly huge Rotary at the bottom of the Champs Elysee boulevard. The Musee Orangerie is there and we went for another small dose of art and artists. Picasso, Renoir, Monet, Rousseau and other notables,












plus two huge oval rooms only holding 40 foot sections of late in life murals of water lilies from a pond near Monet's house. At first I thought, so they are ok, next, please but as we sat and looked they really were quite special.





After a quick bite, we stood in a line at the church of Saint Chappelle for the entrance. Security is quite heavy at all sites and it is like entering an airport. Finally we got in to see the church that the king had had built about 1300 for 40,000 pounds to house what was thought to be the relic of Christ's Crown of Thorns that he had purchased for 100,000 pounds sterling.

The church has huge stained glass windows that line all sides and are covered with stories. Truly astonishing in detail and in effect. We sat for a long time admiring. The Crown relic is displayed once a year and is said to resemble a ring of straw.





The church also had some gargoyles that were quite interesting and used to scare away evil spirits and divert water from the church gutters and various carved critters and column dwellers.

Nearing the end

Yesterday, we went back to Montmatre to get some pix as my camera wasn't working on our evening walk with Chris (from Croatia) who gave a great tour. We saw where Van Gogh got his start, where Toulouse Latrec painted, where Picasso once painted for a meal, the Moulin Rouge (inventors of the Can Can) and finally ending at the Basillica of Sacre Coeur. The top has a market and village area with winding streets. Many artists, 25 at least were working around the center. Several were doing caricatures. One of these looked at me and said "hey you, let me do your nose, it's a funny one". I haven't been quite the same since then.

Because Monmatre is on a very high hill, the front steps of the Basillica command an incredible view of Paris. Only the top of the Eiffel Tower at 334 meters is higher.






After that we ate some couscous and a tagine of lamb for me and poulet for Jenifer at an Algerian restaurant, Bebert's, that served several small, delicious, dishes of olives, carrots, and other bits.








We finished the day by walking a couple of miles along the Promenade Plante. It used to be a raised railroad bed that they were going to tear down until they decided to use it as a walkway and it is planted the whole length with all sorts of flowers, trees, bamboo and other plants. You walk along at about the second story looking down on the cityscape thru gorgeous plantings. We had much good company of people, plants and pets. The Parisians seem to have small dogs and where dog poop had been an issue in the past on sidewalks, we rarely saw any or any litter. A big clean place all around










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Walking, walking, walking

Today was overcast and we started it at the Eiffel Tower walking thru the grounds, watching crowds of Rugby fans parading in uniform before a big match. Didn't even attempt a climb or ascent. Weather and lines were foreboding. The French Open tennis tournament also starts today.





Climbed aboard city bus 69 which wends its way past most important sites and dropped us at the Pere Lachaisse cemetery. Strolled thru the incredible funerary displays from ancient and modern times in this hilly enclave. Found the final resting spot for Jim Morrison of the Doors who died in Paris, and that of Oscar Wilde, which is covered in lipstick kisses from fans and visitors.


Then we took the metro to the Place de La Concorde where Napoleon had a huge obelisk from Luxor floated from Egypt and installed. We strolled up the Champs Elysees ( an oh my gosh huge boulevard) to the Arch de Triomphe and Tomb of the Unknown stopping midway up at Laduree, world renowned tearoom and bakery, for some nowhere but Paris pastry/ cookie/ filled thing called a Macaron, and for tea.



Finally we took a 2 hour walking tour with chris of CityFreeTour and 15 others thru the artistic area called Montmatre, and home to the famous nightclub, Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill) and quite steep streets ending at the Basillica and a grand view of Paris far below .



Then the Metro again, crammed with most of the citizens of Paris on our train. Finally stopping for a very fine bowl of Pho, Vietnamese soup, before heading home to our Pink Hotel nest. A fine day.

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Versaille by bike

Yesterday we took the metro toward the Eiffel tower and walked to Fat Tire Bike tours. At nine, We joined into a group of 25, got our bikes and headed to the train station en masse. Onto the train with our bikes, 4 to a door, and headed to Versaille, about 25 min.away. Off the train and thru the town of Versaille to the open air market. Took about 40 minutes to gather picnic supplies and beverages.

Then off to the incredible residence that the Bourbon Kings had had built for themselves. Biked by the rural village that Louie XVI had built and where his wife Marie Antoinette pretended to be a peasant. Then on to the cross shaped hand dug lake where we picnicked and shared foods.



Around the lake and up to the Chateau where we joined several thousand other folks wending their ways thru rooms. Covered in huge pictures of the various owners in heroic poses and several truly huge paintings from Napoleon's time of residence. Modesty was not in fashion apparently, or in evidence. The 90 minutes was enough. Could understand why the peasants, especially women, stormed the place and threw them out. The peasants lost their patience and the Royals lost their heads, courtesy of Monsieur Guillotine.


Back by train by 7 . Guide Andrew Golden did a great job herding and encouraging us and called all 25 by name. Quite a feat. Fine day.
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Il pleut. (it rains)

Il pleut but it hasn't hindered us much. Jenifer was smart enough to pack a small umbrella and there are enough awnings and covers to mostly keep us dry. Had a great time on our first bike ride and tomorrow we head on the train with a group to bicycle around Versaille, not your average rich neighbors spread we hear.

Today was a foodie day. Started out at a Paris street market near the Bastille. Amazing spread of goods, fish, cheeses, veggies, and even full chicken rotisseries that had small potatoes piled in the bottom area where the drippings landed. Not a diet food, perhaps. Jenifer had a crepe with Nutella spread.

Then we traveled by train and tram to La Regalard, a French restaurant, where the new French style was advanced. Bit out of the way so the chef could keep prices more moderate. A couple of Foodies from Flagstaff sat next to us. Food was very good and well served. Jenifer had a fancy chicken breast and a soufflé. I had a breast of pork and some rhubarb dessert. They started us with a duck pate and some




After returning to the hotel and watching news of a pending state strike of transit workers over an increase in retirement age from current 60, we again encountered rain as we toured around the incredible Opera Ganier. Incredible opulence. Finished up with a great meal at an 1886 restaurant, the bouillon style Le Chartier. Sat next to a German woman with her 14year old daughter visiting from Munich. We had a fine time. I had some Breton Cidre (cider like a beer) and shared white wine with our neighbors. I had choucrout (a sauerkraut dish) and sausages. Jenifer had poulet roti and a too strong Baba au Rhum dessert.




Several new food experiences to our life list now accomplished.
We'll need that biking around Versaille tomorrow.

In closing for today, whoever passed around the rumor that the French, " and, especially, the Parisians" are unfriendly/ unhelpful really need to quit that talk. To a person we have had many acts of helpful kindness show to us as we learn to navigate this new to us old culture. Truly nice folks.

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Location:Paris

Better day today biking

Got into Paris yesterday. Slept very little on the fully booked plane. Arrived at 3 am Utah time, 11 in Paris.

On the subway, two girls blocked our way on to the train, bumped into Jenifer, jumped off, and stole her wallet with $250, credit cards and license. Nice start. Oh well. At least we are here and safe luckily i had written the card #'s and phone #'s for the banks and had sent them in an email to myself.

The Pink Hotel has 15 rooms and very nice staff. Room 205 is small but has wifi and is airconditioned, rare things in Paris we hear. Walked the neighborhood and had dinner at L'inedit Cafe for 9 euros, a true bargain.



Walked a couple of miles this morn to the Notre Dame Cathedral where our bike tour started at 10. Biked for 4 hours on Dahon folding bikes with a group of 10 others and our guide Pamela from Chile. Saw many sites in old Paris. Really worthwhile start to our real vacation after yesterday.



Bought a beret in a Basque market. Jenifer and I enjoyed today so far. Cooling off before our evening. Lunch at La Regalard tomorrow, prix fixe at 33Euros



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